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September 26, 2017, 06:29:41 am

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1  Support / CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Weird toolpaths issue on: Yesterday at 17:16:11
However, a different and better option might be to also convert the text to polylines, but use a tangent lead in and lead out.   Then you could group them into fewer profile operations selecting inside or outside and the roughing clearance (to adjust arc position) so that your always starting on the waste portion of the stock.  You would still need to look over the tool paths to locate your leads so that they do not start in a bad location and damage the work piece.  Inside corner starts often have such problems. 
2  Support / CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Weird toolpaths issue on: Yesterday at 17:02:24
You have a start point for the operation.  How would you start ONE (1) operation in multiple places?  

Convert the text to polylines and do each polyline as a single operation.  Then each one can have its own start point.  
3  Support / CamBam help (General usage) / Re: horizontal and vertical polylines on: September 23, 2017, 15:59:58 pm
Press and hold the 'Shift' key as you drag the next point around, it will snap to 30,45,60,90 in all quadrants.
If you want a specified length of line, try this new plugin,

I wonder how I missed that.  Interesting.  I think of shift as a select and move tool. 
4  Support / CamBam help (General usage) / Re: horizontal and vertical polylines on: September 23, 2017, 15:59:03 pm
I often just draw the line and then edit one point in the point list to match the other. 
5  Resources / Scripts and Plugins / Re: "Snappy", more snap points for CamBam plugin on: September 21, 2017, 20:08:37 pm
Ok... just did some snap and go testing in 0.98 and it worked as expected.  Very nice. 
6  Support / CamBam help (General usage) / Re: First time using the Nesting Function - advices if I want to later add more MOPs on: September 21, 2017, 19:58:10 pm
If you are just using grid nesting you can run into issues if you want to go back and insert a single operation to fix an over sight.  This is why I tend towards point list nesting.  The first point is at 0,0.  The part cuts at its current location.  Each additional point is offset from 0,0 and each part is cut at that offset from the original.  

You may be able to work backwards and do a little math to figure out a point list to that you can use to fix you issue and use that from then on.  If you can't do that easily you might try doing a very simplified (single fast pass above stock) version of the MOPs that define the maximum dimensions and just do the whole thing over. 

Here is a simple video showing grid nesting and point list nesting.
7  Made by CamBam / Members Projects / Re: Rubber Stamp Making on: September 20, 2017, 23:14:36 pm
Wow!  Now I know why I never think of wax.  Its expensive.  Nearly as expensive as aluminum.  Atleast its reusable. 

8  FeedBack / Bug Reports / Re: 1.0 3D FAILURE on: September 20, 2017, 16:05:02 pm
I think we ran into a similar problem some time back that was related to precision for inch users. 

It might require a higher level of precision in the math to calculate the tool paths than a similar size metric mill. 

.03125 vs .75  (not exactly the same)

I also use resolution numbers that are fairly small from .1 down to .03 regularly and sometimes down to .01. 
9  Announcements / Latest News / Re: CamBam plus V1.0 (new development release) on: September 19, 2017, 21:34:30 pm
Darn.  I so want to upgrade to 1.0 because it seems to execute better under W10 than 0.98. 

10  FeedBack / Bug Reports / Re: 1.0 3D FAILURE on: September 19, 2017, 21:30:45 pm

Ok, recapitulation after new tests on 1.0 versions: (with Bob's test file)

R12: 3D toolpaths are OK but multi level machining is not working

R13_1 to R13_3: multi level machining is working again, but bad toolpaths appears since R13_1


Do we know if the bad toolpaths issue was fixed with 1.0.14? 

I think I was told it was a precision level issue for inch users. 
11  Announcements / Latest News / Re: CamBam plus V1.0 (new development release) on: September 19, 2017, 21:28:24 pm
Do we know if the precision error for inch users has been fixed when generating 3D tool paths? 

12  Support / CamBam help (General usage) / Re: Evacuation! on: September 19, 2017, 16:16:01 pm
I'm glad to hear you are ok.

Wow!  Good guys. 

$32K in damages not covered by insurance sure sucks.  I hope you can manage it. 
13  Made by CamBam / Members Projects / Re: Powder Coating - Just for Dragonfly on: September 12, 2017, 18:24:20 pm
There are actually a BUNCH of videos on YouTube by tackle makers doing powder coating. 
14  Made by CamBam / Members Projects / Re: Powder Coating - Just for Dragonfly on: September 12, 2017, 18:21:08 pm
I do have a question:  I have a non-contact IR thermometer.  Can you tell us the 'best' temperature for the material prior to 'swishing' in the powder?


Nope.  Sure can't.  With my heat gun on high I hold a 1/2oz lead jig in front of it close for about 1 second per side.  With Powder Tech paint that's about right.  With HF Paint I often get over coverage.  

Just barely warm enough for the paint to barely stick is the best description I can give.  

I suspect am IR gun (I have a good one and a cheap one) would be inadequate for this job.  Maye an IR camera and screen would work if you wanted a visual indication.  (Technically I should say thermal imaging camera.) 
15  Made by CamBam / Members Projects / Powder Coating - Just for Dragonfly on: September 12, 2017, 02:01:45 am


While generally not a CamBam project powder coating is actually not all that hard.  Most of us have been conditioned to think of it in terms of large production operations, but small parts can be easily powder coated in a counter top toaster oven.  

What about spray booths and static guns?  Well, you can do that, and to be fair it probably delivers the best, thinnest, and most even coating, but its not the only way.  Essentially you are melting a film of plastic dust into a solid uniform coat of plastic, so thin and even are usually good. Thick and uneven results in drips, sags, and poor appearing results.  

My first attempts at powder coating did not involve a static gun.  In fact I have never used a static gun, although now I actually own two of them.  I simple heated a small metal object in front of a heat gun and swished it around in a pile of powder paint.  Then I clamped it up in a make shift rack (due to the type of part) and placed it in my toaster oven.  The results were quite satisfactory.  It was that simple.  Really.  

I've mentioned the toaster oven a couple times now.  Depending on the brand of powder paint I cook at 350F or 400F.  I always have to look at the container to remember the times, but ovens vary.  Usually about 30 minutes with a slow cool down works great for me.  I turn off the oven and crack open the door.  I've heard people talk about outrageous heats and special conditions, but for the average project with small sized metal objects its pretty easy.  

If you get excessive coating you can get nasty sags and drips and fine details can get filled in.  Its probably not an issue for a luggage rack, but it might be a huge deal if visible details are important.  

Now the way I have done it so far is not the best way by a long shot, but it works for quick and dirty small jobs.  Before I talk more about better ways to do it I want to mention a worse way.  You heat the object with a lighter or torch, swirl it in the powder paint, and then quick heat the object again with your lighter or torch until the powder paint turns glossy.  Takes literally a minute from start to finish and it looks good.  The problem is your powder paint is not strong, and it is not well adhered to the object.  Still in some circumstances it may be satisfactory.  Imagine fishing and finding out your target species all want green jigs today.  You can powder coat a jig green and be ready to fish with it in a minute using this method.  The powder coat will flake off when you bounce it off a rock or drag it through gravel, but the truth is you had a useable item in under a minute.  

Now lets talk about better methods.  

Baking is always best.  Some guys say they have gotten even tougher results by partially baking, allowing to cool and the finishing the bake.  I've seen a production line that did just that.  For the most part if you bake according to the direction on the container you will get strong durable well adhered results.  

A static gun will give you the smoothest thinnest, most even coat, but if you bump the part moving it to the oven the powder paint will fall off.  

Preheating and sticking it in the jar works ok, but if you over heat the part excessive paint will stick to the part.  It take a little practice to heat the part just enough so a single layer of particles (or atleast a thin layer) sticks to the part.  It can also require a little pushing and force to get it to work.  

A fluid bed is kind of a compromise.  Air is pumped in through a membrane (brown paper grocery bag seems to work really well as a membrane) into the bottom of a cup full of powder paint.  This causes the powder to fluff up and move around like a liquid making it easy to swish your object around in the powder paint.  The preheat of the object still takes a little practice, but it might require a little less heat because you can swirl it in the aerated powder paint particles much easier and faster.  

Last is selection of powder.  Quality powder coating paint will have very small particle size and not transfer heat easily from one particle to the next.  So far I have used bulk jars of Harbor Freight powder paint and small jars of PowderTech.  The PowderTech gave an order of magnitude better results with my quick and dirty methods, but a friend I trust said he was able to get decent results with Harbor Freight powder paint when using a static gun.  

That's it.  That's all I know about powder coating at this time.  I'm sure I'll learn more down the road.  

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